“Vegan” is the word that shows up most often on labels and product pages when it comes to riding gear made without animal leather. What many people don’t realize: “vegan” is an animal-welfare criterion – not a quality or sustainability label. Two products can both be labeled “vegan” and still be made from completely different materials. Here’s what actually matters.

What “vegan leather” actually means

The term “vegan leather” only tells you that no animal material was used. It says nothing about what was used instead. And that’s exactly where the real difference between products on the market lies.

PU synthetic leather vs. plant-based leather

Most “vegan leather” products in equestrian gear are made from PU synthetic leather – a plastic coating on a textile backing, produced from petroleum. PU leather is often certified “PETA-Approved Vegan.” That only confirms no animal material is present – not that a single gram of the material is plant-based or bio-based. Synthetic leather also tends to be less breathable, is prone to cracking after a few years, and isn’t biodegradable.

Plant-based leather, on the other hand, is made from agricultural byproducts: apple pomace, cactus leaves, pineapple fibres, or grape marc. These materials – known under brand names like Appleskin™, Desserto, Piñatex®, or VEGEA – contain a substantial plant-based share, are made from waste streams instead of fossil resources, and, much like real leather, can be cared for with products like leather balm.

How to tell the difference

  • Does the material have a name? Does it just say “vegan leather” or “PU,” or is there a specific material name like Appleskin™, Desserto, Piñatex®, or VEGEA? Named materials are usually traceable – generic labels often aren’t.
  • What is it made from? A trustworthy vendor can tell you which byproduct the material is derived from – and where it comes from.
  • Is there a care recommendation? High-quality plant-based leather, like real leather, needs occasional care with balm. If a vendor claims the material “never” needs care, it’s usually plain plastic coating.

Why origin is a quality indicator

A material whose origin can be named – Italian apple pomace, Mexican nopal cactus, Philippine pineapple fibres, grape marc from wine production – goes through a documented manufacturing process. That’s a quality indicator, not just a sustainability argument: it usually also means more consistent material quality and a traceable supply chain.

Checklist: 5 questions for your next purchase

  1. What exactly is the material called – does it have a brand name?
  2. Which byproduct or plant is it made from?
  3. Where does the raw material come from?
  4. How is the material cared for – and is there a care guide?
  5. Is there a durability rating or material data sheet available?

At a glance

PU synthetic leather Plant-based leather (e.g. at Nafilia)
Origin Petroleum Agricultural byproducts
Labeling Usually generic “PU” or “vegan leather” Named materials (Appleskin™, Desserto, Piñatex®, VEGEA)
Care Usually none needed/possible With leather balm, like real leather
Biodegradability Not biodegradable Partially bio-based

The bottom line

“Vegan” alone doesn’t tell you anything about quality or origin. That’s why at Nafilia we work exclusively with named, traceable plant-based materials – find out more in our material comparison. Browse our shop and discover which material suits you.